Any car mechanics in da house?

[PlatyPius 5]

Clarification, thank you mags, I meant to say the lock cylinder. The fact the van remained running leads me to believe the cylinder is faulty. The steering column has to be dropped to change that ignition switch to get to the two screws holding it in place so hopefully it isnt that. I just went thru this problem and my ford starter kept turning after the truck started. It happened to me too. I changed the starter and solenoid in the 7/11 parking lot. Still problems so installed a new key lock and it's ok now. I,m not saying this is her problem but with a new starter and solenoid she may need to go to the column next.

Yup.

There was a recall on all Ford ignition switches several years ago; I replaced 2000 or so of them. I have the tools needed to replace the switch quickly without dropping the column entirely, if anyone is interested. lol. And don't get me started on how many lock cylinders I've replaced. The #1 culprit for destroyed lock cylinders - Huge keyrings with 30 keys on them. I have a key for my truck that I keep (hidden) in the truck. It's a ring and the key; that's all. I never use the key on my main keyring for starting the truck...I've seen what can happen too many times.

[Sharon 1]

Well, I got my van back!!!

Total cost: Only $80.00 A lot lower than I was thinking (but then, again, I don't know much about these things)

Not only did he change the starter but he also changed my oil without asking for no charge and filled my window washer fluid thingy with stuff.

AND...now I hope I'm saying this right haha...he "set the idle up"?

All I know is that my van is running better than it EVER has and mannnnnnn....I think I actually have POWER! hahaha Can ummmm..."setting the idle up" do that? I was shocked when I first pressed down on the gas and the van just took off! I'm going to have to get used to this!

Soooo let's keep our fingers crossed that this mechanic does know his business and that this trusty old van hangs on for me for at least another year without it burning a hole in my pocket!

Thanks again for all of your input, everyone. Much appreciated.

P.S. This is my much-disputed about van...lol...the day we bought it.

Edited April 26, 2007 by Sharon

[Mags 112]

Just told Larry (PlatyPius) about your van and he said you had a very good mechanic!

[Hilarious Clinton 452]

Sounds like you have an honest mechanic. Keep him.

BTW, I'd rather have an 'honest' than a 'good' mechanic.

[Mags 112]

Even better if he is honest AND good...

[PlatyPius 5]

Back when I was a mechanic, I'd do similar things. If a car came in for something and I noticed something else that could be fixed easily, I did it. If it was a more involved repair, I'd contact the customer and let them know, usually offering a discount since it was already in the shop for something else.

[Sharon 1]

Can anyone tell me just what this "setting the idle up" did and what it is? It can't have any adverse effects later on, can it?

And can it have really made my van feel like it's more powerful or is that just my imagination?

[Ephesia 0]

Can anyone tell me just what this "setting the idle up" did and what it is? It can't have any adverse effects later on, can it?

And can it have really made my van feel like it's more powerful or is that just my imagination?

Sharon, you got me curious so I went to Google it. The very first search result that came up was this:

http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/carb..._lean_best_.htm

I kinda drowned in all the jargon after the second paragraph.

[Mags 112]

EDIT: Dammit... This is Larry again, not Sian....

The above is similar, but not the same since cars haven't used carburetors since 1986.

All "setting up the idle" means is increasing your idle speed. It takes 4 seconds. If a car is idling too low - say 500 RPMs instead of 700 RPMs, it will likely hesitate when the accelerator is pressed; ie: taking a ####### when "giving it gas". In newer vehicles with fuel injection, having the idle set too low means that the IAC (Idle Air Control) solenoid will be fully extended, and therefore can't do its job of maintaining a steady idle speed. Setting the idle on a fuel injected vehicle (which all Aerostars are...) actually means setting the base idle. To do this, the timing is locked at base timing, the IAC is disabled, and the minimum idle is set to factory specs by turning one small screw.

Advantages to having the idle set correctly are: increased fuel economy, smoother idle, and improved engine performance.

Edited April 27, 2007 by mags

[Amby 490]

my sister has a 2005 mustang and it's already starting to fall apart. the seat belts aren't retracting, the handle on the inside of the door is popping out of the plastic #######, her cd changer isn't working correctly. I think I will agree with pos fords. they've already "fixed" all of these things for her for free a few times and they still keep happening. I think it might be time for a different car for her soon.

[Craneman 2]

Ford has had a starter solanoid, "starter relay" for at least 60 years, used a for relay on my honda lawnmower when the original relay went bad, $12 for the ford, $60 for the Honda.

I should have read more closely. Ford went to a starter solenoid around 1990 (mechanical clutch before this). Relay sounds like it.

She said the starter remained engaged- please read the original post. Has nothing to do with the engine running-

For Sharon-

Funny, but I had a 1993 with a carduretor.

EDIT: Dammit... This is Larry again, not Sian....

The above is similar, but not the same since cars haven't used carburetors since 1986.

All "setting up the idle" means is increasing your idle speed. It takes 4 seconds. If a car is idling too low - say 500 RPMs instead of 700 RPMs, it will likely hesitate when the accelerator is pressed; ie: taking a ####### when "giving it gas". In newer vehicles with fuel injection, having the idle set too low means that the IAC (Idle Air Control) solenoid will be fully extended, and therefore can't do its job of maintaining a steady idle speed. Setting the idle on a fuel injected vehicle (which all Aerostars are...) actually means setting the base idle. To do this, the timing is locked at base timing, the IAC is disabled, and the minimum idle is set to factory specs by turning one small screw.

Advantages to having the idle set correctly are: increased fuel economy, smoother idle, and improved engine performance.

[PlatyPius 5]

A 1993 what?

For several years cars/trucks used TBI (Throttle Body Injection) units that looked just like carbs, but weren't carbs.

[Craneman 2]

Briggs & Stratton

HAHA

A 1993 what?

For several years cars/trucks used TBI (Throttle Body Injection) units that looked just like carbs, but weren't carbs.

[NickD 202]

I would stay away from Advanced Auto or Twilight Zone outlets, so called guaranteed for life starters are nothing but a collection of old parts that barely meet specification if at all sandblasted and tossed together. Your starter is your only means of starting the vehicle if you have an automatic transmission.

Your vehicle employs the Ford positive engagement starter and does use a starter relay that is activated by the ignition switch, neutral safety switch, on some vehicle, the brake switch as well that applies the battery voltage to the solenoid of this relay, closes heavy contacts that applies voltage to half the field winding in the starter. One of the stater pole pieces is magnetized and is actually on a hinge that is linked to the starter drive gear, it is pulled down that closes a heavy set of contacts within the starter that applies battery voltage from a second circuit through those contacts to both the armature of the starter and the remaining field circuit. If you release the ignition switch, the starter relay should disengage killing the voltage to that movable pole piece that is suppose to open those heavy contacts to kill the secondary voltage to the armature and remaining portion of the field winding and the starter motor should stop.

Providing if that movable pole piece can return under spring pressure and the linkage and the sliding starter drive gear to break open those heavy contacts. But it can't if old worn out parts weren't replaces but sandblasted instead that even gives a rougher surface. Better to buy a premium grade starter from NAPA that is rebuilt here in America by the same company that also rebuilds for Ford. Ford does not rebuild starters. Can even try both your Ford dealer and NAPA for the best price, but you are comparing apples with apples. Glanced over the replies, many of them offering suggestions and not even having the slightest idea of what in the hell they are talking about. Have to keep those in mind in other posts as well.

Yet another problem is worn teeth on your ring gear, while these gears are cheap, very expensive to replace as the transmission has to be removed, that should have been inspected, but I am not holding hope on your working starter, a good rebuilder adds corrosion protected well lubricated for that hinge and linkage with a starter drive on a new shiny shaft, your problem can happen again. This doesn't mean I do not buy some stuff from Advance or the Zone, only store opened late on a Sunday night and will buy a name brand light bulb.

Your idle control does have an adjustment for minimum idle speed only, should be adjusted with the IAC disable for 475 RPM, the problem with Ford IAC's, it uses a plastic bellows as a dampener, with age, gets brittle and falls apart jamming the movement, new one with shopping is around 60 bucks. Adjusting that idle control to a higher rpm is not the fix as the computer can no longer automatically adjust the idle that should based on AT, PS, and alternator loading.

I hate poor workmanship.