Gone with the Rant

[SAT 9,609]

Toilet drains are far different than shower drains.

Putty around that tub drain is not going to stop a leak. The gasket is shot, and the compression seals have to be replaced. I'd just replace the whole drain and overflow assembly.

[SAT 9,609]

Nik, don't forget, your p trap is offset to the left. Snake left.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=W2kol-Pwv6w

[SAT 9,609]

I can try that for sure... I would like the air pocket or something else that is a more permanent fix vs having to do that once a month. Most of the taps leak in this house which can be attributed to high pressure. That regulator is broken ANYHOW and needs to be fixed. Thankfully the main works.

Also it's an old house and you already have the issue with the toilet flushing and hot water. We just make a point of not doing it. The ONLY time I've had that not happen is when you either have hot water on demand, or dual hot water tanks. Since we do not have a heated floor, we do not have dual hot water tanks.

Um....Niki dear, look on the p trap. The white part, is that a hair trap? Open it up if you can, and clean it......

[NikLR 13,232]

Niki, are you using a flat snake? They're not that flexible. You need the coil type, or just a plastic one, that's all it takes, take off the drain cover first.

It's a coil snake.

This one in fact:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_347510-319-84150-6_4294821970__?productId=4775873&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo=

and I know how to use it. I take the drain cover off first. I can get about 4' of snake into the drain line and then I cannot get anymore. And when I twist and turn and pull and NOTHING comes out but a bunch of dirty water. I've used draino and it fixed it for about 3 days the first time and not at all the second time. I have to be able to get the snake from the shower to the main and I just cannot get it past a certain point. It just stops. Maybe I'm doing it wrong, I don't know, but I read and watched multiple vids on how to do it. So if I could do it, I would have with that snake. I have read that using a power snake is easier on these basement shower drains so I can rent one of those and that's cheaper than the plumber.

The clog is pretty far down, probably past the P trap (which is hard enough to push through), and doesn't clog the whole shower because if I turn the water down I can have a shower without it clogging, but I can't with the shower on at half or even full pressure.

I cannot see the clog in the drain.

Perhaps a long version of the one you posted Steve may work and I should probably get one anyhow since I have long hair and when we finally get the upstairs shower going, I can use it on that.

We've done pretty well fixing things we can fix ourselves here like the sink disposal and now the upstairs shower and tub faucets. We're not completely unhandy and every time I go to do something, my husband has been a great trooper and steps in to do it. (Even though I know I can do it without him.) The only thing I do far more often than him is shovel the driveway (and get groceries.) LOL Which I'm glad I did during the day today while it was warm because now it and the sidewalk are completely cleared off. My back is killing me for it though.

Um....Niki dear, look on the p trap. The white part, is that a hair trap? Open it up if you can, and clean it......

Steve, sweetie, I'm not worried about the upstairs shower being clogged. It's the downstairs one, the only one that usable at the moment, that is clogged. It's not a bathtub. It's a shower only.

[NikLR 13,232]

in the pictures you can see the white piping going to the downstairs shower... just to the right there.

[NikLR 13,232]

Interesting read:

Water Pressure

• The Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC) calls for water to be delivered to homes for domestic use at between 35 and 80 psi. Angle stops (valves) and supply lines as well as appliances are designed to withstand up to 80 pounds per square inch.

• Water pressure regulators take the water as it is delivered by the water district, and regulate it to between 50 and 70 psi. The pieces in the water pressure regulator that reduce the water pressure are made of rubber and metal. Over a period of time, they can fail. When the water pressure regulator fails, water pressure to the home is allowed to increase. This puts a strain on valves, hoses and appliances that they were not designed to withstand. Unchecked, excessive water pressure may cause a rupture in the supply lines or valves.

• A water pressure test gauge can inform the homeowner if water pressure is excessive. Simply connect the gauge to an outdoor faucet, and turn on the water to determine the water pressure. Make sure the faucet used is “regulated”. Some outdoor faucets are unregulated. If the pipe connected to the faucet comes out of the wall, there is a fairly good chance that faucet is regulated. If the pressure exceeds 80psi, then there is either a failed pressure reducing vale on the system or no device at all. In either case, you should contact a licensed plumber to remedy this situation as excessive pressure besides being a code violation, will damage supply lines, hoses and faucets.

Generally speaking, replacing the water pressure regulator, including parts and labor, should cost less than a homeowner’s standard $500 deductible. A working water pressure regulator reduces the strain on plumbing fixtures and increases their service life.

http://www.samedayplumbingco.com/emergency_tips.html

[NikLR 13,232]

I may try a plunger on it too just to see if that'll work next time it clogs.

OO i can attach at drill to this one.. maybe I should buy this one?

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=347513-319-86250-6&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=4775877&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

Edited February 2, 2015 by NLR

[SAT 9,609]

Nik, the clog is in your main. If you're talking about the basement shower, I hope you don't have a collapsed main (inside main or outside main). Draino is not going to help. Neither is a plunger.

A 40 year old house may have a galvanized pipe for a main on the inside of the house. They're the worst.

[Ontarkie 14,507]

This stuff is what a plumber told us to use http://www.walmart.com/ip/Liquid-Lightning-Buffered-Sulfuric-Acid-Drain-Cleaner/17133944works great. We need to keep it on hand as our main sewer line is somewhere under this house has issues and they can't even snake it with the really big power auger. They can't get past the spot that goes under the addition they ran a camera and everything.

The dip sticks that built the addition to this house buried the main line and we can't find it without ripping up our whole yard.

It's cheaper for them to run a bran new line out to the road (old line goes out the back of the house backyard)

I want hubby to cut the part they can't get past and just run a new section to the old line till we can come up with the big bucks to run it to the road.

[Ontarkie 14,507]

Ya we have the fun orange burg pipe ####### I think that is what they called it.

[SAT 9,609]

Interesting read:

http://www.samedayplumbingco.com/emergency_tips.html

Ok, so if that's the norm there, how do you know you have 110?

[SAT 9,609]

I may try a plunger on it too just to see if that'll work next time it clogs.

OO i can attach at drill to this one.. maybe I should buy this one?

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=347513-319-86250-6&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=4775877&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

Nik, you gotta find out where the clog is first. Do you have a sump where the main exits the house? Look for it, there may be a steel plate over it. It you find it, you should find 1 or 2 brass caps inside, that's the access to the main(s). That's where you start snaking. Out towards the street, if the clog isn't there, then it's in the house. That would be highly indicative of a collapsed main.

This stuff is what a plumber told us to use http://www.walmart.com/ip/Liquid-Lightning-Buffered-Sulfuric-Acid-Drain-Cleaner/17133944works great. We need to keep it on hand as our main sewer line is somewhere under this house has issues and they can't even snake it with the really big power auger. They can't get past the spot that goes under the addition they ran a camera and everything.

The dip sticks that built the addition to this house buried the main line and we can't find it without ripping up our whole yard.

It's cheaper for them to run a bran new line out to the road (old line goes out the back of the house backyard)

I want hubby to cut the part they can't get past and just run a new section to the old line till we can come up with the big bucks to run it to the road.

You most likely have a collapsed main. That whole main should be replaced. Other sections of it will collapse.

[SAT 9,609]

Interesting read:

http://www.samedayplumbingco.com/emergency_tips.html

And for this reason, NY doesn't permit pvc supply lines. Our pressure is high. Very high. It has to get up 6 stories. (Above that requires pressure pumps and water towers). the water main in my house is 1 1/4, and it's about 150psi. Lower than that I'm not getting water on the third floor.

Edited February 2, 2015 by SAT

[Ontarkie 14,507]

You most likely have a collapsed main. That whole main should be replaced. Other sections of it will collapse.

Probably it's why we need to get a new line out to the road.

[SAT 9,609]

What did the camera see?

Btw, in NYC, we buy water main and sewer main insurance...