Gone with the Rant

[N-o-l-a 7,168]

I didn't mean to use snap on fittings, I meant she needs that size arrester.

A pressure reducer valve will not fix water hammering. The hammering comes from the newer type washers when the solenoid in them slams shut and pops open. An arrester reduces the shock the washers create. Having a pressure reducer will simply reduce the hammering, it won't absorb the shock. I know this from my own house.

If the problem is that particular type of washer, of which LG seems to be the main one with the issue. We've got a Whirlpool Duet and no problems.

There can be other causes, especially in an older house - like someone reducing the pipe size to the washer (we've got an area where this happens in our house). A house with smaller piping to a washing machine, high pressure coming in front the street, etc. isn't going to be fixed with a water arrestor. It is like a bandaid.

[SAT 9,609]

The scenario you described will not cause water hammering. Every house has a larger main than interior pipes. Because most household appliances are made for 1/2 inch pipes. And a half inch main is not going to give you any volume.

With that said. An arrester is not a bandaid. It is the remedy.

It doesn't matter what kind of pressure you have going to your washer, when a valve slams shut, and springs open, it's going to cause hammering. And no pressure reducer is going to get rid of it. Because even if you have low water pressure, the solenoid valve in the washer is still going to induce a sudden change in pressure. And that's what's causing the hammering.

Go ahead and install a pressure reducer and see if it gets rid of the hammering.....

I'm betting the only thing you'll get, is frustration, because you'll have no water. This whole country is looking to increase water pressure, and you wanna reduce it.....

You need high water pressure.

[Darnell 8,478]

Steve ! How's the football food? who cooked?

[SAT 9,609]

Sushi

Man I hate both these teams. Katy Perry was the highlight of the game.

Here Troph, read this.

http://home.howstuffworks.com/home-improvement/plumbing/how-to-fix-pipes5.htm

Edited February 2, 2015 by SAT

[NikLR 13,228]

Ok, so what's leaking? Can you change the fitting?

No i can't. It's the whole thing from the tub drain to the p-trap, but mostly it's the tub drain. Here I'll take a picture.

[NikLR 13,228]

[NikLR 13,228]

And just for giggles.

Skittles!!

[NikLR 13,228]

Have you tried to measure the pressure?

Yes it's like 110

[SAT 9,609]

The copper pipes are terribly placed. I've never seen water dolly lines interweaved with the drain lines like that. And I've never seen black pvc pipes. I thought they were wrought iron.

Pvc is easy to work on, but you'd have be taught how to do it. The copper pipes are not hard either, but again, you'd have to be taught. Replacing that bottom drain T fitting is actually eat, once you can get to it.

Wheredahelis thug vertical (riser) copper pipe going to? With that trajectory, it's going to shoot thru the bottom of the tub....

And why is there a white pvc supply line connected to copper??

See the black pvc where it says "astm"? I'd just saw it there and reconnect it later with a coupling.

That copper pipe going from left to right, that gets cut and replaced later.

Basically, that hole has to be free and clear to get at the drain fitting.

[NikLR 13,228]

It is an LG washer and I knew it could cause an issue and tried to remedy it by placing a water arrestor at the washing machine. That worked for a little while but it's back again and worse than ever. I do need an arrestor for the main, I agree. The problem disappears if I run water at the same time as the washing machine. I want to reduce some of the water pressure in the house, but also want to fix that issue.

This is what it looks like currently (not my photo but I found it online and it's where I've put them according to the instructions for the arrestors)

[NikLR 13,228]

The copper pipes are terribly placed. I've never seen water dolly lines interweaved with the drain lines like that. And I've never seen black pvc pipes. I thought they were wrought iron.

Pvc is easy to work on, but you'd have be taught how to do it. The copper pipes are not hard either, but again, you'd have to be taught. Replacing that bottom drain T fitting is actually eat, once you can get to it.

Wheredahelis thug vertical (riser) copper pipe going to? With that trajectory, it's going to shoot thru the bottom of the tub....

And why is there a white pvc supply line connected to copper??

See the black pvc where it says "astm"? I'd just saw it there and reconnect it later with a coupling.

That copper pipe going from left to right, that gets cut and replaced later.

Basically, that hole has to be free and clear to get at the drain fitting.

I've had a plumber look at it already and he says he can fix it. The one copper pipe goes up to the overflow drain on the tub. The white pipe goes over to the shower downstairs which is directly to the right of my dryer which is directly underneath all this piping.

Lemme take a further picture.

black PVC is really common. It's what we have in Canada for the most part. You rarely see white PVC for drains there and I was surprised that under my kitchen sink had white PVC. The black is because it's a drain. It goes to the main.

[SAT 9,609]

If you reduce the pressure, all you'll get is hot water shock when someone flushes a toilet. Today's fixtures have pressure balancing mixing valves in them, designed to work with high water pressure, not low. Go pick up a faucet box at hd, it'll state minimum water pressure 80psi. It won't state a max.

Don't mess with your water pressure. Next thing you're trying to rinse your hair and the washer kicks on, and your husband is flushing the toilet = you're f'ed....

[SAT 9,609]

Niki, those arresters have become water logged, remove them, drain them, put them back on. The hammering will go away. Get bigger ones. Our have the plumber install an air pocket in your plumbing.

The vertical pipe on the left is the overflow drain. There's a 1/2 inch supply line on the right, it goes up thru the floor. What the he'll is that?

In NYC, that's a 150 dollar fix. Parts and labor.

[N-o-l-a 7,168]

I've had a plumber look at it already and he says he can fix it. The one copper pipe goes up to the overflow drain on the tub. The white pipe goes over to the shower downstairs which is directly to the right of my dryer which is directly underneath all this piping.

Husband (who is working as an apprentice plumber now) is wondering if it leaks all the time or just immediately around the time you are using the shower.

He also asked if the guy said how much he was going to charge you to fix it.

In other news, we've got a new toilet after 24 hours using the camping toilet.

[NikLR 13,228]

Niki, those arresters have become water logged, remove them, drain them, put them back on. The hammering will go away. Get bigger ones. Our have the plumber install an air pocket in your plumbing.

I can try that for sure... I would like the air pocket or something else that is a more permanent fix vs having to do that once a month. Most of the taps leak in this house which can be attributed to high pressure. That regulator is broken ANYHOW and needs to be fixed. Thankfully the main works.

Also it's an old house and you already have the issue with the toilet flushing and hot water. We just make a point of not doing it. The ONLY time I've had that not happen is when you either have hot water on demand, or dual hot water tanks. Since we do not have a heated floor, we do not have dual hot water tanks.