70 Years of Liberation! what a Great Trip

[Gary and Alla 3,694]

We just returned from 2+ months in Ukraine. Most was the usual "honey dos" for Babushka, visit friends, etc. I had some wonderful food and wonderful times.

The week before last we went up to Kharkov to see some friends and what a great time! Our friends took the week off and we went to all the sights. Gorky Park, take your girl there and kiss her at the top of the huge Ferris wheel as you look over the city! The "Dolphinarium" at Shevchenko Park. We saw a wonderful Independence day Celebration at Freedom Square and a great concert (Kharkov has an even bigger statue of Lenin than Dontesk! Take THAT!) The history museum is great but was under construction. We have promised to come back this winter and see the new exhibits

But by far the best, most moving and most difficult...was the celebration of 70 years of liberation on August 23, the "Day of the City" In Kharkov at least, this was a bigger celebration than "independence Day" on the 24th.

What can one say? Our friends live near the "Marshall Zhukov" stop on the Metro (if you are married to a RUB woman and do not know who Marshall Zhukov is, google it NOW) There is a scuplture of him on the wall in the station and there are fresh flowers every day at his sculpture.

The War memorial is the best I have seen in Ukraine, or anywhere for that matter. It is built on the mass grave of some 9000 people, most of whom are NOT soldiers, most of whom are unknown. The ones that are known are listed on rows of headstones, each bearing many names. 274,000 people were killed in Kharkov. In Kharkov...ONE city. At the end of a very beautiful walk, a beautiful place now, overhung with huge trees, up a long granite walk...is Rodina...the Motherland. At her feet are fresh cut flowers every day. The cadets from the nearby military academy bring them and use the paths for marching drills. Young people getting married come to give thanks and lay flowers....70 years later. The Memorial is so poweful in its simplicity, in its understatement. And something that always impresses me is not so much that they praise the soldiers or deqd civilians as heros...but that they THANK them for all the people who now are living because of what they did. You take anyUkrainian child over age 6 and they can tell you who Marshal Zhukov is, and know what a T-34, a PPSh and an IL-2 are. Unfortunately they can ALL also tell you of a grandparent, great uncle or aunt that was killed. The war left NO family untouched.

They had wonderful speeches and I got to see Viktor Yanukovich in person. The soldiers...I have no idea how they fight but they MARCH damn good. They look good and the women are as sharp and sexy as Ukrainian women everywhere with their braided ponytails, short skirts and heels, but they carry that rifle just as straight as the men and with ONE hand! No resting the gun on the shoulder! And they Goosestep march, so you hear them coming and the ground shakes and their rifles point straight up, held away from their bodies. That's some impressive marching!

274,000 dead in one city...no wonder they celebrate THAT being over! Under my feet were more dead people than all the US soldiers killed since Vietnam, AND the 9/11 attacks!

What very few men and women are left from this period come every year and wear their medals and are praised and thanked by all present. They are STILL heros.

The plaques and monuments in Ukraine haunt me. I am a history buff and am drawn to them, I want to see them...I think I should see them, but they are so difficult to see and absorb. They shape the life of my wife, so I need to know those things, but they are things you don't want to know.

In other Ukraine News...

I visited a store in Kharov which is nearly a carbon copy of "Home Depot", even to the orange color! The streets getting there are all broken to pieces, but the store is GREAT! Across the parking lot is the largest Supermarket I have seen in Ukraine.

On the way back we spent a few days in Vienna and then Zurich. The Ukrainian trams are always a hoot anyway, I think most of them are 50+ years old.... but the ones in Zurich look like something from Star Wars! You pay for it. A tram in Zurich is a minimum 3 Francs...almost $4. In Ukraine it is about 2 cents. Ukraine is still a damn good bargain in tourist spots. We had one of the best dinners ever in Kharkov with our friends, both women had a glass of wine and everyone had soup and the tab for 4 people was less than $60 with a generous tip. Breakfast in Zurich....eggs, 3 "bangers" and toast was 21 francs EACH. $24!!!!!!!!!! EACH

I think I saw the oldest tram car in Kharkov yet! On the other hand, they now have high speed rail to Kiev and Donetsk from Kharkov.

Anyone here from Kharkov? You have a wonderful city! Thank you! I had visited before when I was young and dumb and just whirled through and missed all the good stuff. Outstanding examples of architechture though, and you even have "architects Park". I did love that part of Kharkov.

Ukraine has so much "texture". It is very "textured" I love it and I hope all of you get to experience the culture your spouse brings to the table.

[Cathi 5,775]

Sounds like an amazing time. Each time I visit my husband's home country I make a point of always visiting "new" historical sites(a lot of religious history), museums, archaeological sites and ruins, the list goes on. The culture and traditions go back thousands of years, pretty awesome stuff. We have both learned a lot as we have gone many places he never thought to go because he grew up there. Marrying someone from a foreign country has enriched the lives of myself and my children more than I could have ever imagined...

[vbtwo 54]

I think I saw the oldest tram car in Kharkov yet! On the other hand, they now have high speed rail to Kiev and Donetsk from Kharkov.

I took the high speed train (Hyundai) from Kiev to Dnepropetrovsk on my last visit. It's nice and shiny and clean, but the leg room is way too small to be comfortable. I'm not tall at all, but my knees kept bumping into the seat in front. To make matters worse, when you try to recline your seat, the entire seat moves forward, so you have even less legroom! It's like choose your poison: seat without recline, or no legroom whatsoever!

At least you can stand up and walk around to stretch, and it doesn't take forever to get to where you need to go, and compared to the cost of trains in the US it's a bargain.

[TBoneTX 45,741]

Cool write-up, G-Bone. Have missed you in the RUBforum. Not the same entertainment since Kip was banned and you've become scarce. Someone should do something to change that, si man.

[Gary and Alla 3,694]

Sounds like an amazing time. Each time I visit my husband's home country I make a point of always visiting "new" historical sites(a lot of religious history), museums, archaeological sites and ruins, the list goes on. The culture and traditions go back thousands of years, pretty awesome stuff. We have both learned a lot as we have gone many places he never thought to go because he grew up there. Marrying someone from a foreign country has enriched the lives of myself and my children more than I could have ever imagined...

Isn't that the truth!

And the even better news is that in the FSU they re-write the entire history every 20-30 years so you get to learn it all over again!

Seriously though, no one debates that some 25 million people were killed in a 4 year period and for that there are no politics. There are no "communists" or "nationalists" or "capitalists" just a lot of normal men and women... and way too many children...who died in the most brutal ways imaginable. Everyone puts aside everything for that period.

I am amazed that there are marvelous buildings dating back to the 1600s that are in better condition than the ones bult in the 1950s. It really is just a great place. We are always glad to come home to reliable electricity, reliable hot water though and the convenience of the "self propelled closet" Carrying extra clothes, shoes and sports equipment on the tram and metro just is not the same! .

We will be adding some new Ukrainian food items to our regular menu at home...some of them Alla is not too wild about which is why she kept them secret!

"graniki" Shredded potatoes, mix in some eggs to make a thick paste, add onions and some meat if you want...small pieces of sausage are great. salt. pepper or spices to taste. Form into pancakes and fry. Sort of a "deluxe" version of hash browns. Serve with "smetana" (sour cream, Ukrainians eat sour cream with everything!) As usual with Ukrainian food...nothing special or amazing or "patented" just a tasty mix of very common food. Alla says it is "too much fat...not too good for your health" I guess she prefers the "low fat" Ukrainian cooking.

Our firends loved Maple syrup and it is clear the 1 quart we brought will not be enough to last very long. Introduced to using it as a sweetener for coffee, their coffee consumption just tripled.

[Lena and Igor 5]

I just spoke to Lena. She is waiting in Amsterdam for her connection back to Detroit. She was visiting her family, friends and past co-workers in Kharkov. It was her first trip back since 2011. Her apartment is very close to the Khalodna Hora Metro station. When I visited her back then, I remember the giant statue of Lenin as well. Beautiful parks. I've been told that all of the Metro stations are labeled in English. Very beautiful city. We plan to go visit Kharkov during the New Year.

[vbtwo 54]

I've been told that all of the Metro stations are labeled in English.

In Kiev all metro stations have English signs as well as Ukrainian. The announcements of the next stop are also in both Ukrainian and English, though they don't translate the names, so they just say pretty much the same thing twice (substituting station for stantziya). I assume it's similar in Kharkov and other cities that have a subway.

[Tanya and Barry 59]

"I've been told that all of the Metro stations are labeled in English"

In Kharkov...it's true. I've spent a total of three weeks in Kharkov. There is a lot to see. Great parks. I was there in 2009. Some tough economic times. Lot of unfinished construction projects from the mid 2000's...just sitting.

[Gary and Alla 3,694]

I just spoke to Lena. She is waiting in Amsterdam for her connection back to Detroit. She was visiting her family, friends and past co-workers in Kharkov. It was her first trip back since 2011. Her apartment is very close to the Khalodna Hora Metro station. When I visited her back then, I remember the giant statue of Lenin as well. Beautiful parks. I've been told that all of the Metro stations are labeled in English. Very beautiful city. We plan to go visit Kharkov during the New Year.

Sort of.

At the entry to the station and on the route maps they have someone's version of a transliteration to Roman Alphabet. It would be "generous" to say it is in "English". I suppose "Khalondra Hora" is as meaningful in French, German or Swedish.

Yeah, without measuring, I would say that is the biggest Lenin statue I have seen!

Our friends showed us photos of the Kharkov decorations in Freedom Square and they are amazing! We also plan a trip back over the holidays, not sure if before or after New Year. I definitely want to see the new exhibits at the History Museum. (spelled "Musee Histori" on the Metro stop, so kinda sorta "english") and the "national University" is spelled in a bizarre manner that makes the Russian easier to read. But the effort was nice.

[Gary and Alla 3,694]

"I've been told that all of the Metro stations are labeled in English"

In Kharkov...it's true. I've spent a total of three weeks in Kharkov. There is a lot to see. Great parks. I was there in 2009. Some tough economic times. Lot of unfinished construction projects from the mid 2000's...just sitting.

The Parks are great, outstanding and among the cleanest I have seen in Ukraine.. Someone actually empties the numerous trash bins and people actually use them! I did not see nearly as many wild dogs as I have seen in other cities, though there are some.

Shevchenko and Gorky Parks are wonderful! The Zoopark is sort of dreary, though. We are told that there are "many improvements" coming soon. I think I believe them. The animal exhibits were all labeled and had English language signs descibing the animals and a much better job of translation that the Metro Stations.

Yes, lots of unfinished construction jobs. Beautiful buildings next to a shell with no windows or roof. They say "someone's money has stopped coming"

[Gary and Alla 3,694]

In Kiev all metro stations have English signs as well as Ukrainian. The announcements of the next stop are also in both Ukrainian and English, though they don't translate the names, so they just say pretty much the same thing twice (substituting station for stantziya). I assume it's similar in Kharkov and other cities that have a subway.

There were no English announcements in Kharkov, but I do not think one would have a difficult time understanding. I mean after a few rides, you ought to get the drift anyway.

[baron555 934]

On the CTA trains in Chicago they make all announcements in garbled English..I believe that are trained to speak that way.

[BatmanUSA 105]

Isn't that the truth!

And the even better news is that in the FSU they re-write the entire history every 20-30 years so you get to learn it all over again!

Seriously though, no one debates that some 25 million people were killed in a 4 year period and for that there are no politics. There are no "communists" or "nationalists" or "capitalists" just a lot of normal men and women... and way too many children...who died in the most brutal ways imaginable. Everyone puts aside everything for that period.

I am amazed that there are marvelous buildings dating back to the 1600s that are in better condition than the ones bult in the 1950s. It really is just a great place. We are always glad to come home to reliable electricity, reliable hot water though and the convenience of the "self propelled closet" Carrying extra clothes, shoes and sports equipment on the tram and metro just is not the same! .

We will be adding some new Ukrainian food items to our regular menu at home...some of them Alla is not too wild about which is why she kept them secret!

"graniki" Shredded potatoes, mix in some eggs to make a thick paste, add onions and some meat if you want...small pieces of sausage are great. salt. pepper or spices to taste. Form into pancakes and fry. Sort of a "deluxe" version of hash browns. Serve with "smetana" (sour cream, Ukrainians eat sour cream with everything!) As usual with Ukrainian food...nothing special or amazing or "patented" just a tasty mix of very common food. Alla says it is "too much fat...not too good for your health" I guess she prefers the "low fat" Ukrainian cooking.

Our firends loved Maple syrup and it is clear the 1 quart we brought will not be enough to last very long. Introduced to using it as a sweetener for coffee, their coffee consumption just tripled.

I Love, Graniki..!! my wife makes it at least once a week.. and I also thought it was like a hash brown... until I dipped it in ketchup... Yuck.! stick with the sour cream...

Edited September 5, 2013 by BatmanUSA

[Gary and Alla 3,694]

I Love, Graniki..!! my wife makes it at least once a week.. and I also thought it was like a hash brown... until I dipped it in ketchup... Yuck.! stick with the sour cream...

We will be eating it once/week at least! Alla was worried she would lose her Sunday morning French Toast (my usual Sunday breakfast which she loves) She doesn't care for Graniki though I do not know why, she eats everything that I would put in there. Go figure. Her loss. More for me.

Sour cream...

[Gary and Alla 3,694]

On the CTA trains in Chicago they make all announcements in garbled English..I believe that are trained to speak that way.

And all this time I thought they were speaking crappy Russian!

They got trained at a Burger King drive-thru (do NOT ask me in front of my wife how I know what a Burger King drive thru sounds like!)