Buying a new car

[Teacher Mark 53]

One other thing about used. If you call around asking for one more than likely they will get your info and call you back. They'll say they're checking their inventory, which they are, but they will also be calling around to see if they can do a dealer trade. You need to make sure you find one that has the car on the lot.

I bought a Honda CRX from the place I was selling cars. I later found out they had got it at an auction and had made quite a profit at my expense . The car was fine until I drove it into a rock.

Edited September 25, 2009 by Mr. Saigon

[aidan80 9]

You've got a good deal on the price but you're making 2 mistakes IMHO.

1.) As Marc suggested, I would buy a "pre-owned" car. It's ironic because a mere 15 hours ago I was teaching my ESL students about positive and negative connotations. That was one of my examples.

2.) You're fixated on one type of car. That one sounds like it's popular. I'd look at a few others as well.

1. I disagree this time around I believe new is better for the price, warranty and mileage vs the small amount saved for a nearly new with in many cases 40k+ on the clock?

2. Fixated is a strong word, I've found the type and brand of car that I wanted at the right price and new. Most other small cars cost $15k and up before Tax, Title, Tag and dealer fees. For me personally I believe this would be a decent deal as the other cars don't fit exactly what I want or cost more than I want to pay. I need a car that's good, holds it value fairly well and something I could pay even if I lost my job and took a job paying less.

I have looked at others, I've actually been reading looking searching and thinking this over for months now. I don't jump to an idea and run with it until I've nailed down all the pro's and cons that work or don't work for me. Which to someone else may just be unacceptable. Bottom line is I want A, B and C and this car gives that and I do not want to spend in total $18k or $19k in total on a small car.

Don't get me wrong dude, I'm just trying to offer a little advice. Kudos to you for being an educated customer. I bet you're giving several dealers ulcers! How many times have they went to see "The Boss"?

No I'm glad of your advice I have thought it through and for me at least I think this work, may not work for the next guy though. I hope I'm giving them something.. I laughed at the one salesman that said "we can't do that, we'd be taking a loss that's under near invoice price" my response was is that the loss you took when the other customer came in the door and bought everything you could sell him or the loss you take when you get your % kickback from Nissan for selling x amount of cars in a month? I felt bad for the guy he's an older guy and I can tell he didn't want to be selling cars he's rather be relaxing and not stressed to death about his quota or his bonus.

[spookyturtle 9,465]

Salvage title car maybe...

My other thread about credit ratings gave me the idea to ask this and this is “off topic” after all so why not ask! lol

I’m in Central Florida looking to buy a new car and so far my new friend is called the Nissan Versa 1.8, Hatchback, Manual, Air, CD/Stereo, side airbags and a bunch of other standard stuff and that’s about it, it’s the basic model. Sticker is around $13,985 plus the 3 T’s and every other fee the dealer can think up. I’m coming away at $16,900 from most dealers “out the door”. A week after I started I’ve got all but one down to around $14,300 and $14,600 out the door.

I know there are people in here that have bought more cars than I’ve had hot dinners lol.. what do you think.. am I still being ripped or getting a decent deal? I feel I can still get them to go under the $14k and into the high $13’s if I show up right near the end of the month with a blank cheque. Assuming I get approved next time for credit lol

Really? Go to a local car auction and buy a 6 month old repo for 25 cents on the dollar. Let someone else take the major hit for driving the new car off the lot.

Dude, that's ####### advice, as those cars are the one's I am speaking of.....Not taken care of....No oil change and no care overall.. good luck with the issues....Let the buyer beware.....

*Edited for clarity...

there is little that one can do through neglect in a few months to a vehicle. They have factory warranties, some for as much as 100,000 miles most are eligible for extended waranties if such things shiver your timbers, and at the prices you pay you can afford to catch up on deferred maintenance. The cars you are speaking of here, go for under $3000 ay auctions very often. So with your car paid in full and $10,000 to $12,000 in th bank, what are you worried about? (or 10-12,000 in available credit for that matter)

Where can I buy a car less than a year old for less than 3K? Here in MA you need a license to buy at most auctions.

Hirschacks Auction in Essex Vermont (near Burlington) any Saturday. If they will let you leave the People's Republic of MA, drive up 93 (or 91) to 89, take 89 to exit 12, north to Dorset St and turn left. If it is Saturday you will not miss the place. No license needed, this is a FREE state. MA does that to keep the price of cars artificially high.

What year, make and models do you see going for under 5K?

[Gary and Alla 3,694]

Salvage title car maybe...

My other thread about credit ratings gave me the idea to ask this and this is “off topic” after all so why not ask! lol

I’m in Central Florida looking to buy a new car and so far my new friend is called the Nissan Versa 1.8, Hatchback, Manual, Air, CD/Stereo, side airbags and a bunch of other standard stuff and that’s about it, it’s the basic model. Sticker is around $13,985 plus the 3 T’s and every other fee the dealer can think up. I’m coming away at $16,900 from most dealers “out the door”. A week after I started I’ve got all but one down to around $14,300 and $14,600 out the door.

I know there are people in here that have bought more cars than I’ve had hot dinners lol.. what do you think.. am I still being ripped or getting a decent deal? I feel I can still get them to go under the $14k and into the high $13’s if I show up right near the end of the month with a blank cheque. Assuming I get approved next time for credit lol

Really? Go to a local car auction and buy a 6 month old repo for 25 cents on the dollar. Let someone else take the major hit for driving the new car off the lot.

Dude, that's ####### advice, as those cars are the one's I am speaking of.....Not taken care of....No oil change and no care overall.. good luck with the issues....Let the buyer beware.....

*Edited for clarity...

there is little that one can do through neglect in a few months to a vehicle. They have factory warranties, some for as much as 100,000 miles most are eligible for extended waranties if such things shiver your timbers, and at the prices you pay you can afford to catch up on deferred maintenance. The cars you are speaking of here, go for under $3000 ay auctions very often. So with your car paid in full and $10,000 to $12,000 in th bank, what are you worried about? (or 10-12,000 in available credit for that matter)

Where can I buy a car less than a year old for less than 3K? Here in MA you need a license to buy at most auctions.

Hirschacks Auction in Essex Vermont (near Burlington) any Saturday. If they will let you leave the People's Republic of MA, drive up 93 (or 91) to 89, take 89 to exit 12, north to Dorset St and turn left. If it is Saturday you will not miss the place. No license needed, this is a FREE state. MA does that to keep the price of cars artificially high.

What year, make and models do you see going for under 5K?

It is rare for anything to go for more than $4k. Sometimes a new truck with snowplow, or a newer Harley Davidson motorcycle (I saw a new Harley bring 6K a couple weeks ago.) I know nothing about motorcycles except I know Harley's ain't cheap. Mini vans are the cheapest, always. A good newer mini van can be had under 3k easily, probably under 2k, depending on bidders that day. Trucks bring the most, convertibles next. Very "close to new" small cars with good gas mileage of various makes and models go for $2500-3500 all day long. Suburus bring a premium as do Volvo AWD wagons, still, a new Volvo (atually maybe a year old) sold for under 6K, $5800 to be exact, last week and the woman that bought it was jumping for joy at her new acquisition for probably 20% of what that car sells for new. These cars are considered the "state car of Vermont" for their deserved reputation of driving through nearly any kind of snow. We keep a Suburu Legacy Outback for winter use with a good set of studded tires and if it goes in the ditch you can just drive it right back out. I paid $1100 for it. It has been driven in and out of several snow filled ditches. In Vermont, you need to plan on ditching a car at least once during each winter unless you hibernate.

Edited September 25, 2009 by Gary and Alla

[scandal 951]

My other thread about credit ratings gave me the idea to ask this and this is “off topic” after all so why not ask! lol

I’m in Central Florida looking to buy a new car and so far my new friend is called the Nissan Versa 1.8, Hatchback, Manual, Air, CD/Stereo, side airbags and a bunch of other standard stuff and that’s about it, it’s the basic model. Sticker is around $13,985 plus the 3 T’s and every other fee the dealer can think up. I’m coming away at $16,900 from most dealers “out the door”. A week after I started I’ve got all but one down to around $14,300 and $14,600 out the door.

I know there are people in here that have bought more cars than I’ve had hot dinners lol.. what do you think.. am I still being ripped or getting a decent deal? I feel I can still get them to go under the $14k and into the high $13’s if I show up right near the end of the month with a blank cheque. Assuming I get approved next time for credit lol

Aidan, another car you might want to consider is the Chevrolet Cobalt. It's comparable to the Civic or Versa, and gets decent reviews and gas mileage.

Plus -- it's made right here in the USA (Lordstown OH). And GM is now offering a full-return policy.

I bought a new Cobalt in July, my total out the door price after all dealer incentives, tax, title was under $16K.

I'm very happy with it so far.

[Ban Hammer 13,340]

Personally, I buy new, because people don't take proper care of their vehicles. I would rather lose 20% on drive off, than rely on some loser that never changed the oil or worse. Which is the probable outcome.....

Spend the extra money and start your own baseline on the vehicle......

ita

aiden, check out the matrix/vibe.

[shania09 1]

My other thread about credit ratings gave me the idea to ask this and this is “off topic” after all so why not ask! lol

I’m in Central Florida looking to buy a new car and so far my new friend is called the Nissan Versa 1.8, Hatchback, Manual, Air, CD/Stereo, side airbags and a bunch of other standard stuff and that’s about it, it’s the basic model. Sticker is around $13,985 plus the 3 T’s and every other fee the dealer can think up. I’m coming away at $16,900 from most dealers “out the door”. A week after I started I’ve got all but one down to around $14,300 and $14,600 out the door.

I know there are people in here that have bought more cars than I’ve had hot dinners lol.. what do you think.. am I still being ripped or getting a decent deal? I feel I can still get them to go under the $14k and into the high $13’s if I show up right near the end of the month with a blank cheque. Assuming I get approved next time for credit lol

acura, its affordable and dependable,aside from that its a big gas saver. trust me.!

[William33 110]

Personally, I buy new, because people don't take proper care of their vehicles. I would rather lose 20% on drive off, than rely on some loser that never changed the oil or worse. Which is the probable outcome.....

Spend the extra money and start your own baseline on the vehicle......

ita

aiden, check out the matrix/vibe.

great call Charles....

http://automobiles.honda.com/insight-hybri...:20090925051853

[lostinblue 1,989]

The wife and I just bought a 2007 yaris 4000 miles for 12,300 before taxes. It has the upgraded package. Air ect. For 1500 more we could have had a 2009 with 37 miles. We had 33 miles to the gallon just buzzing around town. Yaris forum has people hitting 50 on a long trip. We drove the honda fit and it seemed to be a bit better car inside but dealer wanted 15,000 for a 2007 with 40,000 miles. Pick 3 or four cars and see how you like them. This yaris seemed to suit the wife so she decided to buy it. I think it is a good car to bomb around town with. IF the economy picks up again $4.00 gas will be the norm and maybe $5 +/gal.

[swtrick 0]

http://www.carbuyingtips.com/

Great website, really helped when I negotiated to get my new F150.

I estimated my vehicles true value at http://www.edmunds.com/

Using that and multiple quotes from various dealers I was able to get the MSRP down about 6k.

Watch out for the Finance manager the one I ended up with was a total sleaze. I will never buy another car without having financing in hand prior to the sale. The finance manager said the "best financing he could get for me" was 7.9 at 72 months. I went to Pentagon federal credit union and applied online and got 3.9 at 60 months. I took the dealer financing and then refinanced through the credit union a week later and saved myself about 4k in interest charges.

Good luck.

[Anh map 2,098]

With all the rental cars in Orlando most go through the Manheim Auction in Winter Garden. Low miles, all the basic maintenance done, and mostly a good car. (Like any used car each one is unique) If you can get a local used car dealer (and there is no shortage) to take you to the auction to look for a car, or get them to look for you, you may beable to get the make and model you want for a decent price.

Several years ago my car got t-boned and hualed off on the flatbed. Having just bought the ex a new car not too long before I wasn't expecting to get too much given the budget. Was pleasantly surprised by the choices of current year used cars/rentals. Give it a look, even at your dealer chances are any 09 used car is just a rental that cycled through the auction.

A good guide for new car pricing and buying is edmunds.com

Have fun, not much better than a new/new to you car.

Edited September 25, 2009 by Anh map

[spookyturtle 9,465]

Salvage title car maybe...

My other thread about credit ratings gave me the idea to ask this and this is “off topic” after all so why not ask! lol

I’m in Central Florida looking to buy a new car and so far my new friend is called the Nissan Versa 1.8, Hatchback, Manual, Air, CD/Stereo, side airbags and a bunch of other standard stuff and that’s about it, it’s the basic model. Sticker is around $13,985 plus the 3 T’s and every other fee the dealer can think up. I’m coming away at $16,900 from most dealers “out the door”. A week after I started I’ve got all but one down to around $14,300 and $14,600 out the door.

I know there are people in here that have bought more cars than I’ve had hot dinners lol.. what do you think.. am I still being ripped or getting a decent deal? I feel I can still get them to go under the $14k and into the high $13’s if I show up right near the end of the month with a blank cheque. Assuming I get approved next time for credit lol

Really? Go to a local car auction and buy a 6 month old repo for 25 cents on the dollar. Let someone else take the major hit for driving the new car off the lot.

Dude, that's ####### advice, as those cars are the one's I am speaking of.....Not taken care of....No oil change and no care overall.. good luck with the issues....Let the buyer beware.....

*Edited for clarity...

there is little that one can do through neglect in a few months to a vehicle. They have factory warranties, some for as much as 100,000 miles most are eligible for extended waranties if such things shiver your timbers, and at the prices you pay you can afford to catch up on deferred maintenance. The cars you are speaking of here, go for under $3000 ay auctions very often. So with your car paid in full and $10,000 to $12,000 in th bank, what are you worried about? (or 10-12,000 in available credit for that matter)

Where can I buy a car less than a year old for less than 3K? Here in MA you need a license to buy at most auctions.

Hirschacks Auction in Essex Vermont (near Burlington) any Saturday. If they will let you leave the People's Republic of MA, drive up 93 (or 91) to 89, take 89 to exit 12, north to Dorset St and turn left. If it is Saturday you will not miss the place. No license needed, this is a FREE state. MA does that to keep the price of cars artificially high.

What year, make and models do you see going for under 5K?

It is rare for anything to go for more than $4k. Sometimes a new truck with snowplow, or a newer Harley Davidson motorcycle (I saw a new Harley bring 6K a couple weeks ago.) I know nothing about motorcycles except I know Harley's ain't cheap. Mini vans are the cheapest, always. A good newer mini van can be had under 3k easily, probably under 2k, depending on bidders that day. Trucks bring the most, convertibles next. Very "close to new" small cars with good gas mileage of various makes and models go for $2500-3500 all day long. Suburus bring a premium as do Volvo AWD wagons, still, a new Volvo (atually maybe a year old) sold for under 6K, $5800 to be exact, last week and the woman that bought it was jumping for joy at her new acquisition for probably 20% of what that car sells for new. These cars are considered the "state car of Vermont" for their deserved reputation of driving through nearly any kind of snow. We keep a Suburu Legacy Outback for winter use with a good set of studded tires and if it goes in the ditch you can just drive it right back out. I paid $1100 for it. It has been driven in and out of several snow filled ditches. In Vermont, you need to plan on ditching a car at least once during each winter unless you hibernate.

So these deals can be had on 2008 and 2009 models, cars less than a year old? I am just trying to determine if you have found a gold mine or if it is a more typiclal auction with low end, high mileage banged up cars. For a repo car a few months old to be sold for .25 on the dollar is astounding as the person who bought it must have financed it to the hilt and had no equity in it to have it repoed.

[BishopMnA 0]

My advice would be to spend the $ on buying a good car...preferably new if the deal is right, but less than one year old. Then change the oil often, and keep up the repairs...and keep it for at least 15 years or 200,000 miles. In all reality, it is only necessary for a person to own 3 or 4 cars in their lifetime.

Good luck!

Peace, MK

[Danno 1,228]

http://www.carbuyingtips.com/

Great website, really helped when I negotiated to get my new F150.

I estimated my vehicles true value at http://www.edmunds.com/

Using that and multiple quotes from various dealers I was able to get the MSRP down about 6k.

Watch out for the Finance manager the one I ended up with was a total sleaze. I will never buy another car without having financing in hand prior to the sale. The finance manager said the "best financing he could get for me" was 7.9 at 72 months. I went to Pentagon federal credit union and applied online and got 3.9 at 60 months. I took the dealer financing and then refinanced through the credit union a week later and saved myself about 4k in interest charges.

Good luck.

I'm glad you raised this part of the "new car buying experience".

Financing is another way they can and do often get you.

The first new auto I bought, I ended up paying a point or two more in interest rate.

The next time I was ready, I had already talked to my bank and was prepared to get my own financing.

It's true, we do all our homework to haggle a good price on the car and walk into the financing unprepared.

Be ready to haggle with him on that.

They will try to sell you a higher interest rate than you can actually get.

On my last purchase I brought him down more than a few points by calmly letting him know I can just do the loan through my bank.

As a first time buyer there maybe some program that eliminates all this by giving you a set rate.. if not be prepared to haggle or what you saved "out on the floor" you will lose in the financing.

[Danno 1,228]

Oh yeah, another "trick" they pull on you is: you think you have them nailed down on a price, then as they start doing the paper work you see they add for this or that claiming "They have no control over it."

I generally decide what model I want to buy first, then I go to a number of the dealers which offer it and I haggle with each one and when I walk out the door, I leave with a price written down which is my "out the door price" (except tax and tittle).

You need to insist that his price is EVERYthing.

I insisted a dealer stick to it when he tried to add the "prep-fee" after the fact.